Thursday 30 April 2020

Fashion with Trend

Launching a new beauty brand in the midst of a global health pandemic might sound incredibly stressful, but for Camille Katona and Stephanie Spence, the timing allowed them to reiterate the messaging behind their new brand, 19/99 Beauty. “The pandemic hit when we were about six weeks out from launch,” they tell FASHION via email. “We, along with so many others, were and are grasping for ways to adjust to our new world and 19/99 will have, more than ever, a focus on building community and conversations. While what is happening in the world is devastating, we are also seeing a shift in what we as a society truly value. As a new beauty brand, our hope is to be able to use this time to rethink what beauty is all about.”

19/99 beauty
Photograph courtesy of 19/99 Beauty

In a release, the Toronto-based pair (who have both worked in the industry for more than 10 years) describe the brand as making “high-performance, multi-purpose products designed for those who want to define their own beauty and don’t give a sh*t about what is considered appropriate.” The line launched with just two products – the Precision Colour Pencil ($26) and High-Shine Gloss ($24) – which the pair says was a deliberate move to help combat the excess waste already hyper-present in the industry. “We wanted to challenge ourselves to create a limited number of products that are universal; that work for anyone regardless of age, skin tone, aesthetic and lifestyle,” they explain, adding that the products were developed with Canadian makeup artist Simone Otis (who is also the brand’s lead makeup artist). “Simone has vast experience working with people of all skin tones and ages, and was able to help us develop both of these products to ensure they are truly universal. Red lipstick is a timeless, ageless statement accessory that we felt was an approachable way to introduce customers to the product. Throughout our time in the beauty industry we have constantly heard people commenting that ‘this red won’t work’ for them or they ‘can’t wear red’. We believe that anyone can pull off any colour, it’s just about wearing it with confidence.”

Sustainability is also a key focus for the brand, with the pair describing their approach as “less is more.” They tell us, “Our goal is to reshape how we use makeup, with a focus on timeless essentials that also allow for open interpretation, creativity and play. This versatility is what can allow users to create any look they want with fewer products.” On a business level, sustainability comes in the form of using paper envelopes and newsprint for packaging versus traditional plastics and bubble wrap. It goes deeper, too, with the duo also giving back to the community via a partnership with Nellie’s Toronto that will see the brand donate 10 per cent of all of its sales to the organization. “We believe community also plays a role in sustainability. We’ve partnered with Nellie’s in Toronto, which is an organization that operates programs and services for women and children who have and are experiencing oppressions such as violence, poverty and homelessness. Nellie’s is committed to social change through education and advocacy, to achieve social justice for all women and children.”

19/99 Beauty
Photograph courtesy of 19/99 Beauty.

At the core of everything is a focus on products that work for all women, regardless of their age. “We believe that age does not define how you express your idea of beauty. Women are still being pigeon-holed into age-appropriate behaviours, when modern lifestyle is beginning to break down the boundaries of what is considered ‘age-appropriate’. We felt that there was an opportunity to include women of all ages in the conversation surrounding beauty.”

The post How New Canadian Brand 19/99 Beauty is Changing the Conversation Around Age appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Fashion with Trend

Need a break from binge-watching TV? Looking for some entertainment while doing dishes for what seems like the millionth time since quarantine began? Check out these 14 Canadian podcasts that touch on things like identity, the culture of celebrity, the intersection of fashion and technology, beauty entrepreneurship, wellness and more.

Breaking Beauty
In this podcast, Canadian beauty editors Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins interview brand founders on how they made it in the business, and share intel on which new launches to buy and the ones to skip.

Show Your Work
Elaine “Lainey” Lui, founder of Lainey Gossip, and TV writer Duana Taha co-host this weekly podcast unpacking all the recent happenings in the world of celebrity and entertainment. Topics the two covered recently include the post-royal rebranding of Harry and Meghan, Reese Witherspoon’s media empire, and Jessica Simpson’s new memoir.

Dear Seekers
Toronto journalist and social media strategist Sasha Xiao began this podcast in 2018 as a means to connect with “curious, reflective and explorative souls,” seeking deep and honest conversations with a far-ranging roster of women. Recent guests include writer Harriet Alida Lye, wine connoisseur/entrepreneur Nicole Campbell, and store owner Zai Rajkotwala.

A Different Tweed
Hosted by Toronto-born, New York-based fashion journalist Bronwyn Cosgrave, this podcast “champions the craft of design,” interviewing artisans, designers, stylists and other fashion innovators. Most recently, she spoke with Billy Porter’s stylist, Sam Ratelle; Mark Bozek, the documentary filmmaker behind The Times of Bill Cunningham; and jewellery designer Annoushka Ducas.

Code Black
Founded by three women working at some of Canada’s biggest communications agencies, this podcast explores a range of topics—like cancel culture, imposter syndrome, and the intertwining of hair and identity—from the unique viewpoint of black communicators.

Fashion Talks
In this podcast, produced in partnership with the Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards (CAFA), host Donna Bishop interviews designers, stylists and industry insiders about how fashion helps shape the world we live in and vice versa. Recent guests include Celine Dion’s stylist Annie Horth, fashion bloggers The Beckerman Twins and Joanna Griffiths, CEO of Knix.

Electric Runway
How Artificial Intelligence will affect the future of retail, the impact of automation on the fashion industry, and fashion’s contribution to climate change are just some of the topics explored by Toronto journalist Amanda Cosco in this podcast about fashion and technology.

The T-Zone
Founded by two Toronto-based beauty editors, Emily MacCulloch and Ingrie Williams, The T-Zone offers “digital beauty content that shares an upbeat POV with accessible advice.” Recent podcast interviewees include Lori Taylor Davis, global pro lead artist for Smashbox; Dr. Frauke Neuser, Principal Scientist at Olay; and Lilli Gordon, founder of First Aid Beauty.

Lemon Water
Toronto-based Michelle Siman launched Lemon Water with the goal to make wellness attainable, as opposed to “this pretentious thing that not everyone can access.” On the podcast, she invites women like Steph Gee of Gee Beauty, Hana James of Greenhouse Juice and Sara Panton of vitruvi to talk about all things fitness, food, skincare, remedies and rituals. “I’m just having conversations with women who are already my healers; people I looked up to in the industry,” Siman told FASHION last year.

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Retail Nightmares
Vancouver-based co-hosts Alicia Tobin and Jessica Delisle invite comedians, musicians and artists to chat about “hellish retail experiences” and many other topics. On the most recent episode, actress, model, storyteller and activist Cassandra James joined the podcast to discuss “ASMR, General Hospital and the hell dimension/patriarchy.”

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot
On this podcast, award-winning Canadian barber Matty Conrad chats with fellow industry professionals about “interesting and divisive topics, sharing valuable advice on how to achieve success in a highly competitive field, and inspirational stories from the hair and beauty industry today.”

Beyond Soap Podcast
On this extension of her bestselling book, Beyond Soap, dermatologist Dr. Sandy Skotnicki shares the mic with beauty expert Chantel Guertin to have an honest conversation about things that affect skin health beyond beauty products.

Born and Raised
“Where are you really from?” is a question familiar to children of immigrants in any country, and it’s what gave rise to this podcast from HuffPost Canada. “Part reflection, part storytelling, Born And Raised digs into our experiences and connections with identity, family, and culture,” reads the official synopsis of this podcast, which has released two seasons so far, one focused on food and the second on love.

Cavern of Secrets
This “show about extraordinary women” is hosted by Toronto comedian Lauren Mitchell and has featured the likes of writer Sarah Hagi, author Eden Robinson and rapper Haviah Mighty. If you go back into the archive, you’ll find interviews with Rookie founder Tavi Gevinson, author Cheryl Strayed and musician Tanya Tagaq.

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Fashion with Trend

As the world continues to feel the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, fashion houses are having to shift the way they do things, particularly when it comes to campaigns. Last week, Bella Hadid starred in the first major luxury campaign to be shot over FaceTime for Jacquemus, and now, Valentino has revealed its plans for its Fall advertising campaign.

According to WWD, creative director Pierpaolo Picciolo has tapped his network of high profile friends to appear in the brand’s upcoming men’s and women’s campaigns for Fall. So far, the list includes the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Anwar Hadid and Laura Dern. Each of the stars has agreed to waive their fees for the project, with the house donating one million euros to the Lazzaro Spallanzani Hospital in Rome to help with its COVID-19 relief efforts. Each star will be shot in their own home (by someone they’re living with), wearing clothes from Valentino’s upcoming collection.

Excitingly, Canadian spoken word artist Mustafa the Poet (whose real name is Mustafa Ahmed) has also been tapped for the opportunity. This won’t be the first time the Canadian has worked with the Italian brand, either. For its F/W 20 campaign, Valentino asked Ahmed to create a series of poems to appear on pieces in the Valentino On Love collection. Plus, in February, Schitt’s Creek star Dan Levy wore a custom Valentino tux to the Vanity Fair Oscars afterparty that was adorned with the words of one of his poems.

Speaking to WWD about the importance of diversity in the upcoming campaign (which is due for release in September/October), Picciolo said of the stars, “All of them share individuality, talent, self-expression and freedom. I don’t want to define anyone in any box.” He added, “It’s not about hair and makeup, but it’s about the authenticity of beauty, the diversity of beauty.”

The post Canadian Spoken-Word Artist Mustafa the Poet to Star in New Valentino Campaign appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Fashion with Trend

After the announcement this month that London Fashion Week will launch a digital platform, a small slice of direction was given to an industry that’s been in a downward spiral for the better part of a decade. It offers hope that for creatives, there is prosperity beyond the runway calendar; and it also presents an opportunity for everyone involved to rethink, reimagine and start fresh in approaching the design, production, retail and editorial lifecycles of the pieces that allow us to express our inner character to the world. But one thing sprang to mind after hearing the LFW news and other announcements about catwalk cancellations: What would happen to street style?

It’s a medium that’s become a powerful means for press to illustrate trends, and for brands to flaunt their latest wares. It’s launched influencers into business moguls and created icons out of editors—and now it’s facing a disappearing act in the wake of social distancing, a deepening examination of how the fashion industry functions, and for the individual, what’s necessary and what’s not.

Labels have turned to telling stories about their products through social platforms because customers crave authenticity in what they consume, be it visually or through a purchase. And to save itself, street style must likewise pivot back to its original incarnation and intention, documenting what people wear—and how they wear it—in an uninhibited way, sans the intervention of the entities that capitalized on its popularity.

Photography by Sabrina Fenster/StreetScout.

“It was the uniquely dressed characters on the streets of Montreal that inspired me to shoot street style,” says Sabrina Fenster, a Canadian photographer who launched her own blog, StreetScout, in 2011. “What stood out to me the most was that Montrealers all had this je ne sais quoi and their own way of putting outfits together. My goal was to share the personal style of real people, and show how it could be fun and accessible for anyone.”

Like Fenster, many street style photographers began by capturing what those around them were wearing out of pure enjoyment; it was like a treasure hunt with eye candy as the reward. “I started taking photos of people on the street for fun,” says Adam Katz Sinding, a Copenhagen-based photographer who started snapping street looks in Seattle while on his way to work, before moving to New York and professionalizing the pursuit through relationships with top American fashion magazines. (His 2018 book, This Is Not A F*cking Street Style Book, is a chronicle of self-assured attitude versus the to-be-seen peacocking that characterized street style in the mid-2000s.)

Chiara Marina Grioni, an image-maker based in Ibiza, also felt the initial thrill of the find when she started shooting street style in 2015, except she was taking photos during fashion week. “A photographer friend of mine—who has been shooting backstage for thirty years—asked me if I wanted to shoot street style for him,” she says. “I had an instant connection with [it]. It brought together many elements of photography that I loved like documenting and capturing aesthetics and movement, and things I personally loved like style, colours and my passion for shoes!”

Photography by Sabrina Fenster/StreetScout.

Indeed, in its early years, street style pioneers like Bill Cunningham, Tommy Ton and Garance Dorรฉ sleuthed out the most unique ensembles and standout pieces worn by not only fashion show-goers but people simply going about their day. Their direction was fueled by the passion for and interest in how the act of getting dressed defines us all.

But as street style’s clout expanded, making micro-celebrities out of photographer favourites like Susie Bubble, Bryan Boy, Anna Dello Russo, and Tiffany Hsu, the photos became more about third-party communication than the unfettered enjoyment of fashion. “Some photographers are tasked with getting specific shots of key people attending the shows,” says Fenster. “The focus then becomes finding big names and checking them off the list as opposed to shooting because someone catches your eye.”

Additionally, there came a time when you couldn’t swing your camera without hitting a Loewe Puzzle bag or Vetements tracksuit because brands understood that street style stars were just as potent ambassadors as movie stars, singers and socialites.

In addition to the commercial strife this new marketing opportunity caused photographers whose work was being used to capture these products without compensation—not to mention creating a climate of fierce competition and undercutting rates—there began a undermining of the photos amongst those who were taking them. “With the people who came to do it not for the passion for fashion, but just to make money off of it, that diminished the integrity of the entire thing,” says Katz Sinding.

Street style’s co-opting also created a dearth in the expression of stylistic prowess, the very essence it was meant to capture in the first place. “I noticed less creativity amongst the show goers, possibly because of the over-saturation of influencers who are paid to wear specific goods,” says Grioni about how she’s noticed street style change over the years. “It felt less genuine as time progressed. For instance, last season there were two or three brands that everyone wore all the time so I couldn’t take many images without being repetitive.”

Photography by Sabrina Fenster/StreetScout.

With the specific milieu in which street style has centralized in an IRL standstill, there’s no better opportunity for a recalibration of the genre; and there’s a chance for us to remain inspired by what others are wearing just by virtue of the fact that people will be out on the streets far sooner than they’ll be gathering at a fashion show any time soon.

Photographers will eventually have a chance to get back out to fertile, uncommercialized territory and document original style in all its glory. “Just like social distancing is an opportunity for all of humanity to rediscover themselves by looking inward,” says Fenster, “this will be an opportunity for photographers to get back to their roots and hit the streets to photograph real and relatable people.”

The post Does Street Style Have a Future in a Post-COVID-19 World? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Fashion with Trend

At five feet 11 inches and size 0 and with long blond hair, Rachel Romu looks exactly like the sort of person you’d expect to see walking down a catwalk or striking a pose in a glossy magazine editorial. But one thing sets this model from Thunder Bay, Ont., apart from her peers: She carries a cane.

Interestingly, it’s the cane that actually brought her to the runway in the first place. Romu was a track-and-field athlete in her youth, and her goal had always been to become an Olympic champion. But in 2016, doctors discovered a spinal tumour that needed to be urgently removed and also diagnosed her with a connective-tissue disease known as Ehlers-Danlos syndrome.

With her sports dreams dashed, Romu had no idea what life had in store for her next. Then, in the spring of 2017, Toronto designer Annie Thompson—who learned about her story in a chance encounter with a friend of Romu’s and frequently uses friends and clients for shows and shoots—asked if she’d like to appear in her next campaign.

“Modelling never interested me until it felt like there was a meaning behind it for me,” says the 27-year-old. Knowing it was a chance to represent the disabled community in the historically non-inclusive fashion industry, Romu decided to say yes. She has since worked with brands like Lesley Hampton, ZOFF and Hayley Elsaesser and is signed with the Plutino Models agency.

Though she has been able to insert herself into a notoriously insular industry in just a few years, Romu recalls the pushback she faced early on. “For the most part, my peers have been incredibly supportive and complimentary, but I have [overheard] models commenting about various shows I’d been cast in, saying things like ‘You can really tell what designers are open-casting’ and implying that anyone who is deviant from industry norms is somehow a less-skilled model.”

Her agents also faced initial barriers trying to get Romu’s foot in the door, but after her first few projects—which came through designers reaching out to her directly—she says the casting process became easier. “My agents have always seen my skill, professionalism and work ethic, so they were willing to fight any institutional barriers that came up,” says Romu. “They’d put me in show packages for designers who were into socially conscious casting just as frequently as they’d put me in packages for brands seeking a European blond look.”

Furthering her advocacy for the disabled off the catwalk, Romu runs a private online support group for people with disabilities and has done accessibility consulting for music festivals like Montreal’s Osheaga. She also volunteers with the Canadian Music Therapy Fund, which provides services for people with disabilities, on its annual March for Music Therapy fundraiser. It’s a cause close to her heart since she grew up in a musical household and plays various instruments, including the guitar, the piano and brass, and has performed her own music at North by Northeast and Toronto’s Pride festivities.

“I’m leaning into all of these things that I was too scared to do because I didn’t feel like I belonged,” she says. “But the way to belong is to force yourself in there—to smash your own puzzle piece into it.”

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