If you’ve somehow managed to avoid downloading TikTok within the past year, consider giving in now. The popular social media platform built for bite-sized videos is a proper goldmine for hacks of all varieties, especially when it comes to beauty. We love an over-the-top makeup look, but always welcome ways to simplify our routines — if only to pass the time by learning something new. We’ve rounded up some of the best TikTok beauty hacks — from heatless curls and bobby pin eyeliner, to crease-free foundation tips and lip contouring — as demonstrated by some of our favourite TikTok users, below.
1. Do your makeup “backwards”
Apparently, we’ve been doing our makeup wrong this whole time. To avoid creasing or runny makeup, TikTok user @sylvi.uhh says we need to switch things up a bit. Follow up your moisturizer with a bit of powder, setting spray and primer, and then use your regular foundation. Definitely a hot tip for weather-proofing our makeup looks this spring and summer.
Does doing your winged liner send you into a tailspin of anxiety? Bobby pins might be your answer. TikTok user @annnarka demonstrates how she uses them by painting the flared end with liner and using it as a template for the most perfect, crisp wing. This trick is excellent for people with hooded eyes who struggle to make their liner look perfect, too.
3. Set your naturally curly or wavy hair using a t-shirt
If you’re into perfectly set curls, but not so into heat damage, use TikTok user @shakkarwarrior’s T-shirt trick. Leaning forward with your hair loosely hanging down, “plop” your ends onto a t-shirt and tie it up.
We might have tons of time on our hands now to manually curl our hair, but who wants to toil away with a curling iron when there’s an easier way? TikTok user @allisonnkayyy showed her followers how she gets her long, red hair curled beautifully just using socks. Grab four long socks and twist them around your hair sections, securing them with a hair tie or two. Sleep on them overnight and brush them out in the morning.
This tip has quickly gained popularity on TikTok as we trade in exaggeratedly dark brows for bushy, more natural-looking ones. TikTok makeup artist @blaxvz demonstrated running a spoolie along a bar of damp soap, and combing it through her eyebrows. This technique allows each strand of eyebrow hair to stand out, giving brows a fuller, more polished look without being overdone.
A lip tint would typically work well for this look, but if you don’t have one on hand, all you need is your favourite red liquid lipstick. One of TikTok’s resident makeup and skincare gurus @glamzillaxo showed her followers how, by putting a dab of the colour in the middle of your lips — top and bottom — and rubbing it into your lips with your finger or a fluffy brush. And there you have it: “Naturally” pink lips.
7. Get the illusion of fuller lips by contouring your mouth
As aggressively contoured cheeks are feeling increasingly tired, we’re looking towards contouring our mouths now. TikTok’s @amlmakeup showed her fans how, and all you’ll need is a brown lip pencil in a shade that works with your skin tone. Line the sides of your top lips and underneath your bottom lip, and smudge it out with your finger for an instantly lifted lip.
8. Clean your sponges and brushes with household products
It’s easy to forget to clean your makeup sponges and brushes regularly, but you can make it much less of a hassle with this simple combination of dish soap and olive oil. TikTok user @kammymakora demonstrated how she gets her beauty sponge clean as new by soaking it in the mixture and squeezing it out under a running tap.
9. Breathe new life into dried-out lipgloss with this easy trick
Items like lip gloss and mascara can dry out well before they expire, especially if you’re pumping them too much. TikTok user @themichellephan fills a mug with water and microwaves it for one minute. Following that, she places her dried-out lipgloss in the water. After 30 minutes, they’re ready to be used again.
10. Transform light-coverage foundation into full coverage with a simple step
If you don’t own full-coverage foundation but find yourself needing it one day, simply add loose setting powder to it. The powder will cause the foundation to thicken, providing your skin with a heavier coat than normal, as TikTok @seldaasan demonstrates.
Transform your favourite eyeshadow colour into a poppin’ lip gloss with this simple trick demonstrated by TikTok’s @mireyarios. Swatch the shadow colour onto the back of your hand and rub your lip balm in it. Then, simply apply it to your lips.
Have an out-of-control oily T-zone, and your regular oil-control primer just isn’t cutting it? TikTok makeup artist @jayiziahbeauty uses eyeshadow primer on the oiliest parts of his face after regular moisturizer and SPF.
There’s no denying that Meghan Markle and Prince Harry have shaken up the British royal family since they first got together in 2016 and it was widely believed that their relationship was going to modernize the monarchy. In reality, it seems like the union exposed many deep-rooted and systemic issues in one of the longest-standing institutions of our time. This is especially true of Meghan and Harry’s revealing interview with Oprah Winfrey on March 7.
And a lot has gone down since March 7. With Queen Elizabeth II and senior members of the royal family making unprecedented statements about racism to the media, there’s no telling exactly what will happen next now that the throne has been rocked.
March 7: Meghan Markle and Prince Harry’s CBS interview with Oprah airs
Much was packed into the two-hour episode, including when Meghan first met the Queen, her and Harry’s secret backyard wedding days prior to the big televised ceremony, Meghan’s rift with Kate Middleton and the duchess’s mental health struggles, including battling suicidal ideation.
Harry and Meghan revealed that they asked the palace for help and received none. Before the birth of their son Archie, they were told he wouldn’t receive a royal title or security protection. Meghan and Harry revealed that there were even “concerns” about how dark Archie’s skin tone might be. They refused to reveal who made those comments.
The couple shared that they were financially cut off from the royal family in early 2020. Harry, whose relationships Princes Charles and William are strained, revealed they’d been living off of his inheritance from Princess Diana.
Amongst all the bad news, there was some good — the couple is expecting baby number two, a little girl, this summer.
“Having any child, any one or two would have been amazing, but to have a boy and then a girl,” Harry said. “Now we’ve got our family and we’ve got four of us.”
March 8: Piers Morgan accuses Meghan Markle of lying in her interview with Oprah
During the two-hour interview, Meghan expressed suffering from suicidal ideation while pregnant with their son Archie and dealing with the relentless abuse from the U.K. tabloids and a lack of support from the royal family.
Morgan dismissed her claims of suicidal thoughts and racism on Good Morning Britain, saying: “I don’t believe a word she says, Meghan Markle. I wouldn’t believe her if she read me a weather report.” His co-host, Susanna Reid, responded: “That’s a pathetic reaction to someone who has expressed those thoughts.”
‘I’m sickened by what I’ve had to watch.’
‘It’s a 2 hour trash-athon of everything the Queen has worked so hard for, while her husband is in hospital.'@piersmorgan starts the show with his reaction to the Harry and Meghan interview.
March 9: Piers Morgan quits Good Morning Britain, the Queen releases a statement and Meghan Markle’s father addresses his staged paparazzi photos
Piers Morgan took over headlines after he stormed off the set of Good Morning Britain. He’d been called out by his colleague Alex Beresford for relentlessly trashing Meghan on the show, including being taken to task over his accusation the day before that the duchess was lying in her Oprah interview.
It was later announced that Morgan would be leaving the show, after ITV received more than 41,000 complaints from the public about his accusations.
So @alexberesfordTV defends Meghan on @gmb and criticises @piersmorgan for what he’d said about Meghan’s mental health.
Piers walks off the set.
Surely Piers knows if you give it, you gotta be able to take it?pic.twitter.com/gmoNjMxiQy
That same day, Buckingham Palace released a statement, a full two days after the Oprah interview aired.
“The whole family is saddened to learn the full extent of how challenging the last few years have been for Harry and Meghan,” it reads. “The issues raised, particularly that of race, are concerning. While some recollections may vary, they are taken very seriously and will be addressed by the family privately.”
“Harry, Meghan and Archie will always be much loved family members.”
Later on, Thomas Markle appeared on Good Morning Britain, claiming that he felt unprotected by the royal family as he was being hounded by the press at his home in Rosarita, Mexico.
“My oldest daughter was contacted by a man named Jeff Rayner who was a photographer, who said, ‘If you can convince your dad, we can make him look good,'” Thomas explained on the show about why he chose to pose for staged paparazzi photos. He later admitted: “I wish I hadn’t done the whole thing.”
“I’ve yet to hear from them. I would love to hear from them,” Meghan’s estranged father said when asked why he continued to take part in stories about his daughter. “They’re not talking to me. When they decide to talk to me, I’ll stop talking to the press.”
March 10: Meghan Markle files a formal complaint over Piers Morgan’s comments
The Duchess of Sussex reportedly filed a formal complaint with ITV after the Good Morning Britain host said he didn’t believe anything Meghan said in her Oprah interview. It’s believed that she made the complaint because of the impact his comments could have on those suffering with their own mental health struggles.
In a since-deleted tweet, per CNN, Morgan later wrote: “I’ve had time to reflect on this opinion, and I still don’t [believe her]. If you did, OK. Freedom of speech is a hill I’m happy to die on. Thanks for all the love, the hate. I’m off to spend more time with my opinions.”
That same day, Sharon Osbourne came to his defence on The Talk, saying: “Did I like everything he said? Did I agree with what he said? No. Because it’s his opinion. It’s not my opinion … I support him for his freedom of speech, and he’s my friend.”
. @piersmorgan I am with you. I stand by you. People forget that you’re paid for your opinion and that you’re just speaking your truth.
March 11: Prince William says his family isn’t racist
Prince William and Kate Middleton visited a school in east London for their first outing since Meghan and Harry’s interview with Oprah. As the two were leaving the school grounds, Sky News correspondent Inzamam Rashid asked if William had spoken to Harry, and if the royal family is racist.
“I haven’t spoken to him yet but I will do,” William says in video footage shared on Twitter by royal reporter Omid Scobie. “We’re very much not a racist family.”
“We are very much not a racist family,” Prince William told reporters during a visit to a school in Stratford, London.
When asked if he had spoken to Prince Harry after the Oprah interview, he added, “No, I haven’t spoken to him yet, but I will do.”pic.twitter.com/MjTOeH7u6Z
For the shortest month of the year, February sure did drag on and on. But at long last, after what felt like the longest winter of all time, we’re finally getting a glimpse at what we’ve all been looking forward to: the sweet release of spring. The few weeks of transition between winter and spring, otherwise known as March, are all about brightening (we are losing an hour of sleep this weekend, after all), skin repairing (post-winter dry complexion, anyone?) and summer prep (skin looking like it hasn’t seen the sun in months?). We’ve rounded up the March 2021 beauty products that have launched this month — or are launching soon — that can help you transition between the seasons, and deal with the rainy, still cold-ish, indecisive days in between.
Fenty Beauty Body Sauce Body Luminizing Tint
Fenty Beauty Body Sauce Body Luminizing Tint, $63, Sephora
Launched on March 5, the latest release from Fenty Beauty is a lightweight luminizing body tint that provides skin coverage plus a bit of shimmer for a healthy-looking glow. Available in seven shades, the buildable sheer to medium coverage tint is just the thing to add to your cart after a long winter indoors. Bonus: it’s sweat-, humidity- and transfer-proof so you can continue using it into the upcoming warmer months.
Still dealing with bouts of maskne? Rodan + Fields’ new Soothe regimen launches on March 24 and features a four-step system — a cleanser, treatment, moisturizer and SPF — that has been specifically formulated for sensitive, visibly red, dry and irritated skin. The line has even been proven to show results in eczema and atopic dermatitis thanks to ultra-soothing ingredients like colloidal oatmeal and seven essential ceramides to nourish skin and provide relief.
Embryolisse Lait-Crème Sensitive
Embryolisse Lait-Crème Sensitive, $43, Shoppers Drug Mart
A hypoallergenic version of the cult favourite Lait-Crème Concentré, Embryolisse’s new Lait-Crème Sensitive was formulated specifically for sensitive and reactive skin. So gentle that it can even be used on babies and children, its 98 percent natural formula features soothing ingredients like shea butter, beeswax and aloe vera. The multipurpose product can be used in a variety of ways, including as a moisturizer, makeup remover, body cream and after-shave lotion.
Acne-prone? Breakouts happen when sebum oxidizes and clogs pores, and the application of topical antioxidants can help heal. SkinCeuticals’s oil-free vitamin C serum, Silymarin CF, works overtime to reduce excess oil and improve skin smoothness and clarity.
The beloved Fresh lip balm offerings, available in flavours like peach, coconut and caramel, just got three tropical new additions: mango, passionfruit and lychee. Just in time for spring, these hydrating lip balms provide 24-hour moisture, tons of shine and of course, truly addictive flavours.
Nuxe Super Sérum 10
Nuxe Super Serum 10, $86, Hudson’s Bay
For the first time, Nuxe has used a green process called natural microfluidic encapsulation, which eliminates the use of silicones in a formulation. Super Sérum 10 features botanical oils encapsulated in thousands of micro-spheres, resulting in a truly unique sensorial experience as those encapsulated micro-spheres make contact with skin upon application and develops as you massage the serum in. Over time, these botanical oils will contribute to smoother, brighter and firmer skin.
Tatcha The Silk Powder
Tatcha The Silk Powder, $64, Sephora
Inspired by oshiroi, the opaque yet illuminating makeup traditionally worn by geisha to shield their complexion, Tatcha has launched The Silk Powder, a protective, talc-free, translucent skincare powder formulated in Tokyo. Featuring oil-absorbing, skin-blurring silk and a blend of radiant pink and gold Japanese pearl, The Silk Powder absorbs excess oil while providing a skin-perfecting finish.
Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum
Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum, $117, Sephora
The 5th generation of its global best-seller, Sulwhasoo’s recently launched First Care Activating Serum is formulated using the Golden Ratio master blend of five herbal ingredients that work together to address wrinkles, hydration, radiance, moisture barrier. One bottle of Sulwhasoo’s First Care serum is sold every 10 seconds in Korea, and this latest iteration can be used on skin, around the eye area, and on the neck and hands. Used immediately after cleansing, the serum can even increase absorption of the products in the rest of your skincare regimen.
A black liquid eyeliner is a beauty bag staple, but trying to find one that’s made from high-quality clean ingredients is a challenge. Cue Bite Beauty. The brand is known for its non-toxic, vegan and cruelty-free formulas, and its first-ever liner, Upswing Extreme Longwear Liquid Eyeliner, is made with nourishing passion-flower extract and a fruit-derived thickening agent that delivers smooth-glide colour. What’s more, the felt-tip dip applicator is something even eyeliner amateurs can master to swish and flick their way to a flawless cat-eye. Bonus: The pitch-black pigment doesn’t budge once the liner dries.
COS, the brand beloved for its Scandinavian minimalism, has launched its Spring/Summer 2021 campaign and its airy linen sets, crisp cotton separates and easy one-and-done dresses will make you wistful for those first patio days in April (or perhaps March? We can dream). In celebration of the new collection, COS has unveiled its SS21 campaign, centred “around the brand’s vision for a better future, with an optimism for the planet, its people and the next generation,” according to a press release from the label that has committed to becoming climate positive, with 100 percent sustainably sourced or recycled materials. (They’re tracking positively towards that goal, with 86 percent sustainably sourced materials so far in 2021.)
The campaign, shot by Karim Sadli and styled by Aleksandra Woroniecka, features two top models who also use their voices for social change and share a commitment to a more ethical fashion industry. British style icon Edie Campbell, an advocate for the fair treatment of models, stars alongside American filmmaker and writer, Adesuwa Aighewi, who has campaigned for representation within the industry. For her part, Campbell famously voiced her concern about the treatment of models in a 2017 open letter published in WWD, writing: “We have a problem: We operate within a culture that is too accepting of abuse, in all of its manifestations. This can be the ritual humiliation of models, belittling of assistants, power plays and screaming fits. We have come to see this as simply a part of the job.”
Here, FASHION shares exclusive quotes from Edie Campbell where the model-slash-activist talks about sustainability, maturing within the fashion industry and her love of horses. (Do we sense a new pandemic hobby in our future?)
EDIE CAMPBELL. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF COS.
On growing up in the fashion industry
I started modelling when I was 15, on and off, and then properly when I was 20, 21. I was an extremely awkward teenager; I would rather have not had a body at all. Then, to end up in this career which is so physical! As a model, you’re expected to take up space — you get on set, and you perform, and as I learned more about it that made me very confident in my skin. Growing up in the industry gave me an amazing confidence. I’m really grateful to have that, now.
On sustainability
Sustainability, for me, is about stewardship. We’re all looking after the world for the people who will come after us. How to live a life that does not have a negative impact? It’s difficult, because it’s so complex. It’s not possible to simply create a set of rules to live by that will remedy the climate crisis. Instead, I think it’s about trying to be mindful. Treading lightly, and leaving a minimal trace.
For me, reading and learning and trying to understand the magnitude of the problem has been very motivating. The people who are least responsible for the crisis we face are the ones who will bear the heaviest burden, and that is clearly unethical. Reading — a lot — opened my eyes. It’s not about being puritanical, or making meaningless gestures. Instead, it’s about doing better tomorrow than you did today.
I’m in the business of selling clothes to people, but I would hope that the fashion industry would slow down a little and bear more responsibility, focus more on quality over quantity.
Adesuwa Aighewi. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF COS.
On horseback riding
My mum signed me up for ballet lessons when I was five years old, and I had absolutely no rhythm, I bounced up and down like an elephant. So she asked if I wanted to have a riding lesson, instead, and I said yes. I was just obsessed — I have been ever since. Four-legged creatures are my great love. You can’t think of anything else when you’re on a horse. It’s soul food, really.
On her horses
I have four horses. One, Dolly, is retired, and the other three are Ed, Bruno and Tinker — shiny, posh, big-muscled beasties. My favourite thing about riding is learning what makes them tick. I compete, so I train horses to do what I want them to, and in order to do that successfully you have to get inside their head, see the world through their eyes. It’s incredibly rewarding, to create a very close partnership with this big, hairy beast. They trust you, and that’s very special. Riding has made me more in tune with the natural world, too; You gain a respect and an awe for nature and its ways.
EDIE CAMPBELL. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF COS.
On personal style
My style is quite androgynous. I like good clothes, but I’m not particularly interested in trends. I’m very interested in people who are extremely well dressed, whatever that is for them. When I’m riding, I dress like a complete slob. Especially in winter, when it’s many layers of thermals, and big, smelly coats with horse slobber on. But in competition, I do quite enjoy going for it, shining my boots. There’s a culture, in riding, of wearing things that will last. It’s not about the shiny and new, it’s about the quality of make.
Check out COS’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection here.
One year into lockdown and Lady Gaga is giving us a fashionable reason to keep going. It’s been three years since her Oscar-winning performance in A Star Is Born, and she’s headed back to the big screen alongside Adam Driver for a juicy Italian murder mystery, set against the backdrop of the glamorous Gucci family life, called House of Gucci.
The film follows the story of Patrizia Reggiano, Maurizio Gucci’s ex-wife, who plotted to kill her husband Maurizio Gucci, the grandson of fashion designer Guccio Gucci and heir to the fashion house. Here, everything we know so far about the 2021 film, out this winter.
The murder mystery is set to be released on November 24, according to its IMDB page. While many film release dates have been pushed back because of COVID-19, the on-time release of this one seems promising, given they’re clearly still in production. The film drops right around the fashion house’s 100th anniversary.
Is there a House of Gucci trailer yet?
While there’s no trailer released yet, we’re crossing our fingers for one in the summer.
Who is starring in House of Gucci?
The film is stacked with other big names aside from Lady Gaga (Patrizia Reggiani) and Adam Driver (Maurizio Gucci). Jared Leto will be staring as Paolo Gucci, the former vice-president and managing director of both Gucci Shops Inc. and Gucci Parfums of America. Al Pacino will play Guccio Gucci’s eldest son Aldo Gucci, who was the chairman of Gucci Shops Inc. from 1953 to 1986.
Florence Andrews and Jeremy Irons will star as Jenny and Rodolfo Gucci, respectively, while Camille Cottin will play Paola Franchi, girlfriend to Maurizio. Youssef Kerkour, of the Netflix series Marcella and Sex Education, will play Nemir Kirdar, an Iraqi businessman and financier who founded a private equity firm that once owned Gucci, among other big names like Tiffany and Co. and Saks Fifth Avenue.
The screenplay is based on the 2001 book House of Gucci: A Sensational Story of Murder, Madness, Glamour, and Greed by Sarah G. Forden. An Italian fashion journalist for more than 15 years, Forden chronicles the gripping story of the ascent, collapse and resurrection of the Gucci dynasty, taking readers behind the scenes of the trial and family life.
Maurizio was shot and killed by a hitman hired by Patrizia on the steps outside his Milan office in 1995. She became known as the “Black Widow” and was sentenced to 29 years in prison. Her sentence was later reduced to 26 years after her daughters, Allegra and Alessandra, claimed her brain tumour affected her ability to reason.
Where is House of Gucci being filmed?
No surprises here, the film is being mostly shot in Italy where the fashion house was born. Twitter fan account @GagaMediaDotNet shared BTS photos of Gaga as Patrizia, wearing a chic red jumpsuit.
— The Adam Driver Files (@AdamDriverFiles) March 8, 2021
Who is producing House of Gucci?
Ridley and Giannina Scott will be producing the film through their company Scott Free Productions. Ridley Scott is known for his work on films like Alien, Blade Runner, Gladiator, Thelma & Louise, The Martian and more.
Sister duo Chloe and Halle Bailey — perhaps better known as Chloe x Halle and also known as Beyoncé protégés — released their album Ungodly Hour last year (yes, in the midst of a pandemic) to critical acclaim. Billboard even called it one of the 10 best R&B albums of 2020. “We’re still finding ways to navigate this and perform for our audience,” says Halle over a Zoom call. “It’s been like an interesting creative project, but we miss the energy of an audience and hearing people sing our songs back to us. But we’re making it work.”
Making it work seems to be the underlying theme of the sisters’ year, and work they certainly have been. Chloe and Halle have just been announced as the new faces of Neutrogena — the brand’s first ever sister ambassadors. “We grew up seeing Neutrogena commercials on TV, and particularly that iconic face splash moment [in the sink] and we’d always re-enact it,” laughs Chloe. (Be honest: who among us didn’t nearly flood our parents’ bathroom at one point or another trying to do the same?)
Iconic face wash moments aside, Chloe and Halle are fans of Neutrogena’s sunscreen offerings, thanks to their sheer protective finish. “Because women of all skin tones and types [can wear them], including us with our brown skin, because it doesn’t leave a white cast,” says Chloe. “It doesn’t hide your aura and your true beauty.”
“As Black women, it’s taken a long time for us to find a good sunscreen that works with our skin and doesn’t leave a white cast,” says Halle. “I’m grateful to be part of a brand that thinks about things like that and is inclusive.”
As one of the first, and only, artists signed by Beyoncé’s record label Parkwood Entertainment, Chloe x Halle have been ones to watch for years. To date, the sisters have earned an impressive five Grammy Award nominations and far too many other award show noms to count. When asked what women are on their watch when it comes to beauty inspiration, Halle is quick to answer: “Billie Holiday, the epitome of vintage beauty and glamour. And Beyoncé and Regina King, of course. Women who aren’t afraid to be unapologetically themselves are definitely my beauty icons.”
So how have the now 20- and 22-year-old sisters (Halle and Chloe respectively) handled being in the public eye in the last nine years? With a level of grace and poise reminiscent of their mega-star mentor and label manager, of course. “Just because we’re in the public eye doesn’t mean we have be perfect,” says Halle. “It doesn’t mean we have to look flawless, can’t have pimples, or can’t be human. I think we’ve matured to point where we can get that out of our heads.”
This article was originally published in September 2020.
Update:Underplayed is now available to stream in Canada on Crave.
After highlighting the issue of “diversity within the music space” in the short film Discwoman several years ago, director Stacey Lee has returned with a documentary that focuses on the routine harassment and lack of equality that women and female-identifying creatives in the world of electronic music have faced for decades. “This isn’t a new phenomenon,” says Lee when asked about the sexism, undervaluing and under-representation that’s explored Underplayed, a new documentary which was produced by Bud Light and premieres at this year’s Toronto International Film Festival on September 19. “Women have been central and instrumental to the whole birth of this industry since the beginning.”
Stacey Lee. Photograph courtesy of Underplayed
Lee’s film offers a voice to a wealth of musical talents ranging from Australian DJ, producer and singer Alison Wonderland and twin sister act Nervo to Los Angeles-based DJ and producer Tokimonsta, Niagara Falls’s Rezz and Grammy winner Suzanne Ciani. It also draws attention to trailblazers like musician and composer Delia Derbyshire.
Lee says that she was shocked at what she uncovered while working on Underplayed, particularly given this wasn’t her first production on the topic. “It was like nothing had evolved,” she says of the four years since her first project hit the screens. “If anything, some of the statistics were worse. It made me realize the urgency surrounding it.” At the core of the film is the notion that for women to gain equal footing with their male counterparts, a revolution — with all voices involved — must happen.
“It’s exceptionally complicated because you don’t want to distract from the art and the craft of what you’re doing by defining yourself as a woman,” says Lee about her documentary subjects. “At the same time, because there’s such inequity in the space, they also have a responsibility to speak up until things are right…. It’s a male responsibility, too. Women can’t be the only ones fighting for this. It’s the same as the Black Lives Matter movement. It’s shouting into an echo chamber if women are the only ones talking about this.”
FASHION spoke to four electronic acts who are part of the documentary about the trials they’ve faced, how self-expression brings them joy and what keeps them playing on.
TOKIMONSTA
courtesy of tokimonsta
“I think ingenuity is such a challenge and a gift,” says L.A.-based multi-hyphenate Jennifer Lee, who produces music and DJs under the name Tokimonsta. “It’s a quality in music that I strive for, and it keeps me on my toes.”
Lee, who grew up in a traditional immigrant household and learned how to play piano in her youth, says it wasn’t until she left for college that she could dabble in musical creation outside the works of the classical greats (all men) she had been exposed to and expected to learn.
“Growing up, I felt as if I had a lot of creative ideas, but if I ever strayed from Mozart or whatever I was playing, my family would be like, ‘What are you doing? Just stick to what you’re meant to do,’” she recalls. “I never allowed myself the opportunity to think that being creative in a different way was possible or OK. Once I decided to leave for college, it didn’t really matter what my parents thought anymore. I was on my own.”
During her first year of post-secondary studies, Lee downloaded the music production program FruityLoops (now called FL Studio) and developed the technical skills and prowess to craft the hypnotic tracks she has become known for; she points to the genres of drum & bass and West Coast rap and the work of Missy Elliott as being pivotal influences on her style. In 2015, after releasing two albums, Lee was diagnosed with Moyamoya disease, which affects arteries in the brain; she lost a host of cognitive functions and had to learn how to make music all over again.
Despite Lee’s evolution as a musical entrepreneur — she launched the record label Yung Art several years ago — and the fact that she’s self-taught, part of the sexist behaviour she has witnessed through her more than a decade-long career centres around her abilities as a creator. “There have been rumours that my boyfriend was making all my beats and he taught me everything I know,” she says. “Those rumours still exist because people don’t want to think I did it on my own. The discouraging part is that I’ve become so wrapped up in this idea that people don’t give me ownership of my music that it creates a blockage, and I feel very reluctant to work with other people. It has created some long-lasting trauma for me. But I’m growing and exiting from that, and I need to think about the art more than my ego, essentially.”
In addition to Lee learning to release her fears about collaboration, she says that familial acceptance with regard to her career has also grown; her mother now gleefully watches out for Tokimonsta mentions in the newspaper. And her mother — who was a fashion designer in the 1960s — has influenced her in terms of the style choices she makes. “She’s had a profound impact on my style,” says Lee. “She’s all about classic looks—the idea that if you have a certain style of jacket, you’ll have it for the rest of your life. I’ve always enjoyed her perspective on fashion in that way.”
TYGAPAW
courtesy of tygapaw
“I didn’t think of DJing as something I could pursue. If you don’t see yourself represented in a position, you don’t think it can be obtained.” Dion McKenzie, who goes by the moniker Tygapaw, grew up in Jamaica, and though she was exposed to music by Whitney Houston and Tina Turner growing up, the male-dominated dancehall and reggae scenes that permeated the culture left little space for women to consider themselves part of that world in the creative sense.
After moving to New York to study graphic design at Parsons School of Design, McKenzie felt emboldened to pursue the passion that had previously been denied. “I wanted to dive into learning how to play an instrument, but I wasn’t necessarily encouraged or supported when I was younger,” she recalls, noting that when she was a teen, her most potent musical memories came from hearing alternative music by bands like Nirvana and No Doubt. “I had a deep interest in the sound of an amplified guitar running through distortion,” she says.
McKenzie leaned into learning the guitar, and that eventually led to an interest in DJing. “It started when I was in a band, and my bandmate was a DJ as well,” she says. “She was fierce, and she really encouraged me. She said: ‘If you want to DJ, you should just do it. you shouldn’t put a barrier in front of yourself.’”
Since those early days, Tygapaw has become an integral part of New York’s underground music scene and beyond, although quarantine has forced her to focus more on the creation of her first full-length album than globe-trotting. “I’m enjoying the break because sometimes it can be overwhelming when you’re touring a lot and constantly in motion,” she says.
It’s hard to imagine McKenzie revelling in stillness when her music has such a propulsive quality, mixing nuances of island rhythms with driving electronic elements. the range of influences reflected in her tracks can also be seen in how she approaches dressing. “Personal style for me is all about expression and where I’m at in terms of my comfort in denouncing what society deems as conventional,” she says. “expressing myself, especially when it comes to my gender—or non-gender. There’s an evolution that’s in progress.”
The notion of progression resonates with McKenzie’s career path as well. “I create opportunities for myself, and I don’t take no for an answer,” she says. “A lot of times for Black, queer, non-binary and trans artists, that’s often the case. We create our own space and carve our own path.”
Although Tygapaw is one of the biggest names in New York nightlife, McKenzie says she was surprised to be asked to be part of the Underplayed documentary. “I’m an underground artist, Black and queer, and I also present in a certain way; I’m not high femme,” she notes. “There’s no overnight success for people who look like me; there’s a continuous work ethic — being ridiculously resilient and continuing to have a vision for yourself.”
Interestingly, McKenzie says another creative in the documentary is someone she admired as she was coming up through the touring circuit. “Tokimonsta has been an inspiration,” she says about fellow subject Jennifer Lee. “I saw her live at a festival where I was playing a smaller room, and now it’s come full circle where I’m in a documentary with her. Life is funny and interesting that way.”
And since McKenzie knows first-hand what example and encouragement can lead to, she says that the opportunity to be a voice in the film was important to her. “It’s really to empower young Black girls to know that they’re good enough. You can shine as bright as you want because you’re completely capable.”
NERVO
Photograph by by Chloe Paul
Like many of their peers, twin musical act Nervo acquired their aptitude after years of training — for them, in piano, violin and voice. Miriam and Olivia Nervo — who have recorded tracks with Kylie Minogue and Kesha and got their big break with a Grammy Award-winning song they co-wrote with David Guetta and Kelly Rowland — grew up in Australia in the musical-theatre world and haven’t stopped stealing the stage since.
“I think our singing teachers would roll over in their graves if they could hear us now,” Miriam notes with a laugh, as the pair have lent their vocal skills to pop-fuelled tunes that are a far cry from the formal arrangements they once studied. “The greatest thing about pop music is that it’s super-creative,” she says. “It’s all about breaking rules and doing what you feel.”
One gets a sense of this free-spirited nature via Nervo’s wardrobe choices — a mix that includes bodysuits, outsized tops and jackets and a selection of silky boxing shorts from Thailand. “We’ve always had fun with fashion and our hair,” says Miriam. “The best part of our job is being able to wear the best wardrobe.”
Always ones to follow their own beat, the sisters took a course in music production after several experiences of having their music “ripped off” by producers. When asked about the discrimination they’ve encountered, Miriam says: “We’ve always been around that. It’s part of being a woman in a male-dominated industry — you experience it in all aspects, from talent scouting and development to working with other artists.”
In order to shine a light on these challenges, the two were keen to be part of Underplayed; they had performed as part of the Bud Light House Party Tour and loved the experience. But they’re quick to point out that their interest doesn’t ultimately lie in shaming aggressors. “It doesn’t do us any service to name them,” says Olivia. “It’s tricky airing dirty laundry about our male counterparts in the business,” adds Miriam. “Yes, some of them haven’t been supportive or have been sexist, but our nature is to focus on the good and move forward.”
Miriam and Olivia notably used the documentary’s platform to demonstrate one women’s issue that’s still deeply under-represented in the entertainment industry: being a working mother. The pair announced their pregnancies in 2018 and avidly share the journey with fans. “That part of our lives we’re very open about,” says Miriam. “There are a lot of DJs who are fathers, but you wouldn’t know it from their social media,” adds Olivia.
Recalling the women who have influenced their musicality since they were teenagers — like Irish DJ Annie Mac and British musician Sonique as well as their relationship with music manager Amy Thomson, whom they credit as being a strong single mother — the Nervo sisters can’t help but look forward to a world with more female representation across all industries.
“I’m so optimistic for their lives,” says Miriam about her daughter’s and niece’s future. “I think women and girls these days are getting great opportunities. Society is changing.” And not a minute too soon.
CIEL
Photograph courtesy of ciel
When Toronto-based DJ, promoter and producer Cindy Li — also known as Ciel — isn’t visiting one of her favourite local shops, like vintage haunts Nouveau Riche Vintage, Public Butter and Common Sort, she’s directing her attention to not only her craft but also making the music industry a more equitable place.
Li feels that much of the problem is rooted in confidence, having experienced her own self-esteem struggles, which started when she was a young piano student. “I didn’t think I had it in me,” she recalls about making the move to create her own music after years of classical training. “Growing up in that world…there’s this idea that talent is innate. That kind of thinking is especially harmful for women because we aren’t as encouraged.”
This is something that Li has worked actively throughout her life to combat. “When I interact with women at workshops and on social media, I’m always trying to encourage them to not let fear stop them,” she says. “Anyone can make music if they want to and if they have the time and dedication.”
Though Li, who also ran a fashion blog in the 2010s, took a hiatus from the music scene for several years, she returned to nurture experimentations in sound—her tracks are melodic, intentional and uplifting—as well as encourage a new community by throwing parties with a fellow female entrepreneur. The events brought together “a queer-, woman-, POC-heavy community of people” at a time when “most lineups were 99 per cent male.” And although these parties made headway in terms of illustrating what equality in the music industry could look like, Li says that slowly, over time, she found that her influence was limited. “In the existing community—and you can see this in other cities as well—people were OK to just keep doing what they were doing.”
This was evident when Li called out a successful promoter in Toronto who until that point “had consistently booked all-male lineups and actually hadn’t booked a single woman in six years.” She recounts the experience as being something she would advise others against, even though call-out culture has become ubiquitous across industries. “It was really intense, and I don’t recommend it,” she says. “It was mentally trying for me. Leading by example is great if you have a lot of patience. Calling out will get you more immediate results but not necessarily the results you desire. A lot of times when you call someone out, they just shut down and end the project rather than trying to do better. The group that I called out stopped throwing parties. Of course, I was blamed for their disbanding. But I didn’t ask them to disband; I just criticized them for not booking women.”
In spite of this experience, Li hasn’t lost her drive to inspire others. “The way the industry looks now versus how it looked five years ago is hugely different,” she says. “There are way more women on lineups.” But she adds that with an uptick in representation comes the danger of insincerity. “I’ve been the token female DJ on an all-male lineup,” she says, noting that she’s also experienced multiple instances of payment disparity with her male peers. “For a man to say something like ‘I’m not going to play your party unless you pay me $500’ — it’s very rare for women in the industry to have that level of confidence,” she explains. “That’s a much deeper problem in examining inequality — a lot of women lack the self-confidence to compete with full gusto against their male counterparts.”
Li says that there’s much work to be done for the music industry to eliminate discrimination, highlighting the fact that female DJs are still treated differently even when it comes to accolades — for example, in the separate list rankings for top DJs and then top female DJs. “We’re trying to achieve integration and equality,” she says, adding that what it all comes down to is this: “Women need their existence to be normalized.”
This story appears in the October issue of FASHION magazine, available on newsstands from September 10th and and via Apple News + today.
Photography by Iakovos kalaItzakIs. Styling by Ryan WeavIng. Creative direction by geoRge antonopoulos. left: Jacket, $4,930, corset, $3,830, and skirt, $1,255, andreas
kronthaler for vivienne westwood. right: Jumpsuit, $2,275, vivienne westwood. necklaces and gloves, stylist’s own.
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