Fashion with Trend

Vivienne Westwood, who died December 29 in London at age 81, is widely credited for being the “high priestess of punk.” But she was so much more than that. Westwood was a visionary whose designs always led, never followed. She was a wit who could skewer aristocratic snobbery with a shrewdly mangled plaid. She was irreverent and provocative, receiving her Order of the British Empire at Buckingham Palace panty-less and putting the Queen with a safety pin through her lip on a T-shirt. But beyond being fashion’s foremost provocateur, Vivienne Westwood is the reason corsets, crinolines, rubber, leather and latex are accepted aspects of modern dress.

Dame Vivienne Westwood after collecting her insignia from the Prince of Wales during an Investiture ceremony at Buckingham Palace in London in June 2006. (Photography by Getty Images)

“She was revolutionary in so many ways,” says George Antonopoulos, FASHION’s creative and fashion director. “She took historical elements like corsets and coquette silhouettes and made them supercool and exciting.” S&M gear and fetish wear became “normalized” in her hands. “And back in the ‘80s, she was the very first gender bending designer,” he says. “She created unisex clothing and showed men’s and women’s together on the runway and it all made sense.” She was also one of the first designers to use her platform to raise awareness for political and social issues including nuclear disarmament and climate change.

Ever the non-conformist, Westwood seemed to get particular pleasure from sending up British culture. “She took traditional elements like tailoring and tartans and Harris tweed and turned them upside down,” Antonopoulos says, adding that Westwood was the first designer he ever spent money on as a teenager. “I loved how disruptive she was. She was the designer that made me fall in love with fashion.”

Vivienne Westwood with Malcolm McLaren. (Photography by Getty Images)

In the ‘70s, Westwood met Malcolm McLaren, manager of the Sex Pistols, and together the pair shaped the punk movement — he with the music and she with the clothes. They were romantic partners too, though Westwood later married her current husband Andreas Kronthaler, a designer who has worked alongside her since they married in 1992. In typical Westwood fashion, the union raised some eyebrows — he was 25, she was 50. But she could hardly care what others thought — a theme that ran throughout her career.

Perhaps that is why Westwood is also one of the most respected creatives of our age and one whose ideas have been referenced by so many who followed her. “She was a designer’s designer,” Antonopoulos says.

Below, a look at some of Dame Vivenne Westwood’s signature designs, from tartan to corsets, on the runway.

Photography Getty Images

Photography Getty Images

Photography Getty Images

Photography Getty Images

Photography Getty Images

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A model in the first show Westwood presented outside of London

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Kate Moss, 1993

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Naomi Campbell, 1994

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Kate Moss, 1994

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Kate Moss, 1996

The post Vivienne Westwood Was “a Designer’s Designer” appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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Fashion with Trend

“Life isn’t black and white; it’s gold.” If you’re a beauty history buff, then you likely know that famous tag line from the original 1999 Christian Dior J’adore fragrance advert starring Estonian supermodel Carmen Kass walking through a pool of liquid gold (actor Charlize Theron has taken over as the face since 2006).

With its signature gilded bottle inspired by the figure-eight (a nod to Christian Dior’s 1949 cyclone dress) and adorned with what looks like fine, golden jewellery around a women’s neck (derived from one of John Galliano’s Maasai-style gold chokers from fall 1997), Dior’s J’adore is arguably one of the most well known perfumes out there.

Ushering in a new era of opulence and optimism for the new millennium at the time, the initial fragrance, which was created by French master perfumer Calice Becker, was a robust, classic floral that smelt nothing like your grandma’s bedroom: think a cluster of ylang-ylang, rose and jasmine for a sensual, magnetic spritz. And even though the original juice has since been reformulated to include a number of different concentrations over the years, including different iterations of the iconic gold-wire-wrapped flacon, the allure of J’adore has never gone out of style. Now, over two decades later, the scent is disrupting perfume circles yet again with J’adore Parfum d’Eau, which dropped earlier this fall.

Photography courtesy of Dior

Made with the same feminine, floral DNA, J’adore Parfum d’Eau is an innovative water-based scent, the brainchild of Dior’s former in-house perfumer of nearly fifteen years, Francois Demachy, who officially stepped down last year.

The outcome of a Dior patented nano-emulsion technique — it is able to infuse higher-than-normal quantities of flower oil into a water base using extremely high pressure and in turn eliminates the need for any chemical solubilizers — the latest spritz is made without a trace of alcohol, leaving only the good stuff: a bouquet of magnolia, jasmine, rose and honeysuckle. (Tip: No alcohol means it also doubles as a fabulous scented hair mist without drying out tresses.) What’s more, there’s also a brand new signature floral note, bitter orange neroli flower blossoms of Vallauris, which are grown exclusively for Dior.

Over 900 kilometres south of Paris, in the hillside commune of Vallauris just outside of the seaside town of Antibes, former sales director turned flower farmer Christelle Archer tends to Florapolis, a once abandoned, 100-year-old bitter orange tree grove. “The Florapolis estate has 502 trees, including 300 that are centenary,” shares Archer. Her exclusive partnership with Dior helps to rehabilitate flower production in the region. “Unfortunately, due to land pressure, most of the orange tree farms disappeared in favor of the construction of villas, which can be menacing for our heritage.”

Photography courtesy of Dior

During harvest time in the spring, flowers are picked by hand with the help of seasonal workers. “Over a period of four weeks, we pick each flower. They are then grouped in sheets to be brought on the sorting table in order to remove any leaves or other vegetation that could alter the quality of the neroli oil,” Archer explains. The neroli oil itself is then obtained via a steam distillation. “This a profession that requires a precise savoir faire. I transport the flowers every day to a distillery so they can be processed the same day. This way, we preserve the optimal quality of fresh flowers.”

Housed in a reimagined white opalescent bottle, J’adore Parfum d’Eau ($195) feels incredibly easy to wear, and is a delight to spritz on: the spray experience has even been elevated to a cocooning mist that just hits different than other perfumes.

So if you’re still looking for a last-minute gift or simply want a new signature scent to help you ring in the New Year, we highly recommend this one. There will be zero regifting here, trust.

The post There’s A Lot Going On in Dior’s Latest J’adore Spritz — In the Best Way appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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Fashion with Trend

This year, runway makeup trends 2022 were two things: expressive and extra. Metallics lined models’ eyelids, brows were bleached to a barely-there state, and faux lashes and kohl black eyeliner were taken to gothic extremes.

As far as runway makeup trends are concerned, designers and makeup artists are the vanguards of what beauty looks are considered “in” or “out” for the upcoming season. With each look sent down a catwalk, there’s the potential to birth the next beauty trend du jour. So when face gems appear at both Peter Do and Halpern — or statement blush debuts at both Gucci and Christian Cowan — we take note of a makeup trend on the rise.

To sum up 2022 in beauty looks, we’ve rounded up the top five runway makeup trends of the year below.

Glam goes goth

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

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Prada

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Tom Ford

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Richard Quinn

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Luar

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Versace

Will goth ever die? This year’s runways say not any time soon. Faux curtain lashes fit for a horror movie, witch-length black talon nails, black lacquered lips and of course — the quintessential icon of gothic grunge — black liner smudged smokey eyes signalled that gothic beauty was back (again). In a year where the runways forecasted funeral fashion and Wednesday Addams is having a moment, the resurgence of gothic beauty was all part of the trend cycle.

Ultra-embellished

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

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Schiaparelli

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Simone Rocha

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Peter Do

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Fendi

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Halpern

Nothing says “extra” like a face bedazzled with chunky gemstones, iridescent pearls and OTT glitter. By this definition, 2022 catwalks were a high-class case study in how to achieve maximalist makeup at the highest degree. Move over, TikTok. If you’re not dressed in Schiaparelli haute couture and dripping rhinestone tears, you’re not doing “crying makeup” right.

Mega-bleached brows

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

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Givenchy

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Tommy Hilfiger

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Burberry

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Versace

Both on and off the runway, bleached brows shifted the beauty paradigm. This subversive beauty trend pushed back against the barely-brushed fluffy brow phenomenon, and broke out in full force at the biggest fashion shows of the year. Love it or hate it, it’s still a major makeup moment.

Statement blush

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

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Viktor&Rolf

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Christian Cowan

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Etro

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Gucci

High-octane pinks and strategic product placement characterized high fashion’s take on statement blush. For these Spring 2023 shows, the standard rules of blush application did not apply. Instead, chiselled cheeks doused in bubblegum powder that blended upwards to frame the forehead were more than welcome.

Major metallics

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

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Tory Burch

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Giambattista Valli

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Dries Van Noten

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Coach

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Copper-coloured hair and chrome textured nails punctuated the 2022 beauty trend space, so runway models painted in foiled metallic finishings are well deserving of a mention on this list. From Dries Van Noten to Giambattista Valli, frosted metal makeup was swept over eyelids for maximum impact.

The post The Top 5 Runway Makeup Trends of 2022 appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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