Fashion with Trend

Vivienne Westwood, who died December 29 in London at age 81, is widely credited for being the “high priestess of punk.” But she was so much more than that. Westwood was a visionary whose designs always led, never followed. She was a wit who could skewer aristocratic snobbery with a shrewdly mangled plaid. She was irreverent and provocative, receiving her Order of the British Empire at Buckingham Palace panty-less and putting the Queen with a safety pin through her lip on a T-shirt. But beyond being fashion’s foremost provocateur, Vivienne Westwood is the reason corsets, crinolines, rubber, leather and latex are accepted aspects of modern dress.

Dame Vivienne Westwood after collecting her insignia from the Prince of Wales during an Investiture ceremony at Buckingham Palace in London in June 2006. (Photography by Getty Images)

“She was revolutionary in so many ways,” says George Antonopoulos, FASHION’s creative and fashion director. “She took historical elements like corsets and coquette silhouettes and made them supercool and exciting.” S&M gear and fetish wear became “normalized” in her hands. “And back in the ‘80s, she was the very first gender bending designer,” he says. “She created unisex clothing and showed men’s and women’s together on the runway and it all made sense.” She was also one of the first designers to use her platform to raise awareness for political and social issues including nuclear disarmament and climate change.

Ever the non-conformist, Westwood seemed to get particular pleasure from sending up British culture. “She took traditional elements like tailoring and tartans and Harris tweed and turned them upside down,” Antonopoulos says, adding that Westwood was the first designer he ever spent money on as a teenager. “I loved how disruptive she was. She was the designer that made me fall in love with fashion.”

Vivienne Westwood with Malcolm McLaren. (Photography by Getty Images)

In the ‘70s, Westwood met Malcolm McLaren, manager of the Sex Pistols, and together the pair shaped the punk movement — he with the music and she with the clothes. They were romantic partners too, though Westwood later married her current husband Andreas Kronthaler, a designer who has worked alongside her since they married in 1992. In typical Westwood fashion, the union raised some eyebrows — he was 25, she was 50. But she could hardly care what others thought — a theme that ran throughout her career.

Perhaps that is why Westwood is also one of the most respected creatives of our age and one whose ideas have been referenced by so many who followed her. “She was a designer’s designer,” Antonopoulos says.

Below, a look at some of Dame Vivenne Westwood’s signature designs, from tartan to corsets, on the runway.

Photography Getty Images

Photography Getty Images

Photography Getty Images

Photography Getty Images

Photography Getty Images

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A model in the first show Westwood presented outside of London

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Kate Moss, 1993

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Naomi Campbell, 1994

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Kate Moss, 1994

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Kate Moss, 1996

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Fashion with Trend

“Life isn’t black and white; it’s gold.” If you’re a beauty history buff, then you likely know that famous tag line from the original 1999 Christian Dior J’adore fragrance advert starring Estonian supermodel Carmen Kass walking through a pool of liquid gold (actor Charlize Theron has taken over as the face since 2006).

With its signature gilded bottle inspired by the figure-eight (a nod to Christian Dior’s 1949 cyclone dress) and adorned with what looks like fine, golden jewellery around a women’s neck (derived from one of John Galliano’s Maasai-style gold chokers from fall 1997), Dior’s J’adore is arguably one of the most well known perfumes out there.

Ushering in a new era of opulence and optimism for the new millennium at the time, the initial fragrance, which was created by French master perfumer Calice Becker, was a robust, classic floral that smelt nothing like your grandma’s bedroom: think a cluster of ylang-ylang, rose and jasmine for a sensual, magnetic spritz. And even though the original juice has since been reformulated to include a number of different concentrations over the years, including different iterations of the iconic gold-wire-wrapped flacon, the allure of J’adore has never gone out of style. Now, over two decades later, the scent is disrupting perfume circles yet again with J’adore Parfum d’Eau, which dropped earlier this fall.

Photography courtesy of Dior

Made with the same feminine, floral DNA, J’adore Parfum d’Eau is an innovative water-based scent, the brainchild of Dior’s former in-house perfumer of nearly fifteen years, Francois Demachy, who officially stepped down last year.

The outcome of a Dior patented nano-emulsion technique — it is able to infuse higher-than-normal quantities of flower oil into a water base using extremely high pressure and in turn eliminates the need for any chemical solubilizers — the latest spritz is made without a trace of alcohol, leaving only the good stuff: a bouquet of magnolia, jasmine, rose and honeysuckle. (Tip: No alcohol means it also doubles as a fabulous scented hair mist without drying out tresses.) What’s more, there’s also a brand new signature floral note, bitter orange neroli flower blossoms of Vallauris, which are grown exclusively for Dior.

Over 900 kilometres south of Paris, in the hillside commune of Vallauris just outside of the seaside town of Antibes, former sales director turned flower farmer Christelle Archer tends to Florapolis, a once abandoned, 100-year-old bitter orange tree grove. “The Florapolis estate has 502 trees, including 300 that are centenary,” shares Archer. Her exclusive partnership with Dior helps to rehabilitate flower production in the region. “Unfortunately, due to land pressure, most of the orange tree farms disappeared in favor of the construction of villas, which can be menacing for our heritage.”

Photography courtesy of Dior

During harvest time in the spring, flowers are picked by hand with the help of seasonal workers. “Over a period of four weeks, we pick each flower. They are then grouped in sheets to be brought on the sorting table in order to remove any leaves or other vegetation that could alter the quality of the neroli oil,” Archer explains. The neroli oil itself is then obtained via a steam distillation. “This a profession that requires a precise savoir faire. I transport the flowers every day to a distillery so they can be processed the same day. This way, we preserve the optimal quality of fresh flowers.”

Housed in a reimagined white opalescent bottle, J’adore Parfum d’Eau ($195) feels incredibly easy to wear, and is a delight to spritz on: the spray experience has even been elevated to a cocooning mist that just hits different than other perfumes.

So if you’re still looking for a last-minute gift or simply want a new signature scent to help you ring in the New Year, we highly recommend this one. There will be zero regifting here, trust.

The post There’s A Lot Going On in Dior’s Latest J’adore Spritz — In the Best Way appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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Fashion with Trend

This year, runway makeup trends 2022 were two things: expressive and extra. Metallics lined models’ eyelids, brows were bleached to a barely-there state, and faux lashes and kohl black eyeliner were taken to gothic extremes.

As far as runway makeup trends are concerned, designers and makeup artists are the vanguards of what beauty looks are considered “in” or “out” for the upcoming season. With each look sent down a catwalk, there’s the potential to birth the next beauty trend du jour. So when face gems appear at both Peter Do and Halpern — or statement blush debuts at both Gucci and Christian Cowan — we take note of a makeup trend on the rise.

To sum up 2022 in beauty looks, we’ve rounded up the top five runway makeup trends of the year below.

Glam goes goth

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

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Prada

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Tom Ford

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Richard Quinn

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Luar

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Versace

Will goth ever die? This year’s runways say not any time soon. Faux curtain lashes fit for a horror movie, witch-length black talon nails, black lacquered lips and of course — the quintessential icon of gothic grunge — black liner smudged smokey eyes signalled that gothic beauty was back (again). In a year where the runways forecasted funeral fashion and Wednesday Addams is having a moment, the resurgence of gothic beauty was all part of the trend cycle.

Ultra-embellished

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

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Schiaparelli

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Simone Rocha

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Peter Do

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Fendi

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Halpern

Nothing says “extra” like a face bedazzled with chunky gemstones, iridescent pearls and OTT glitter. By this definition, 2022 catwalks were a high-class case study in how to achieve maximalist makeup at the highest degree. Move over, TikTok. If you’re not dressed in Schiaparelli haute couture and dripping rhinestone tears, you’re not doing “crying makeup” right.

Mega-bleached brows

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

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Givenchy

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Tommy Hilfiger

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Burberry

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Versace

Both on and off the runway, bleached brows shifted the beauty paradigm. This subversive beauty trend pushed back against the barely-brushed fluffy brow phenomenon, and broke out in full force at the biggest fashion shows of the year. Love it or hate it, it’s still a major makeup moment.

Statement blush

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

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Viktor&Rolf

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Christian Cowan

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Etro

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Gucci

High-octane pinks and strategic product placement characterized high fashion’s take on statement blush. For these Spring 2023 shows, the standard rules of blush application did not apply. Instead, chiselled cheeks doused in bubblegum powder that blended upwards to frame the forehead were more than welcome.

Major metallics

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

Photography courtesy of Imaxtree

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Tory Burch

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Giambattista Valli

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Dries Van Noten

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Coach

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Copper-coloured hair and chrome textured nails punctuated the 2022 beauty trend space, so runway models painted in foiled metallic finishings are well deserving of a mention on this list. From Dries Van Noten to Giambattista Valli, frosted metal makeup was swept over eyelids for maximum impact.

The post The Top 5 Runway Makeup Trends of 2022 appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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Fashion with Trend

Londre Bodywear drops a capsule of skirts and dresses

Photography courtesy of Londre

Vancouver-based clothing line Londre’s focus has always been sustainability. Continuing on this journey, the swimwear and resort-worthy apparel brand has released a capsule titled The Only consisting of long dresses, tops and skirts crafted from recycled plastic water bottles. Whether it’s for a new year wardrobe refresh or an upcoming holiday getaway, these timeless garments are bound to turn heads.

Smash + Tess launches ultra-cozy sherpas

Photography courtesy of Smash + Tess

Smash + Tess’s Uncork and Unwind collection was designed with cozy days in mind. Featuring a shacket, zip sweater, long hoodie and slippers, and created in collaboration with Canadian TV personality Kaitlyn Bristowe, the warm and plush capsule will have you feeling cute *and* cozy. Throw it on for day on the slopes, fireside cuddles, snowball fights or a glass of wine.

Alder Apparel launches a circular economy project for the new year

Photography via alderapparel.com

It’s no secret that the new year is synonymous with laundry lists of resolutions. For Toronto’s Alder, that includes working towards a more circular fashion industry — but with a literal laundry list! On January 10, the brand will introduce its ReCreate Market, a program that enables customers to bring in their used Alder clothing for credit. The team will then give said items new life by cleaning, repairing, refreshing and upcycling them. Not only does this reduce loads of textile waste, but it offers community members the chance to buy the label’s premium styles at a more accessible price point, knocking 40 to 60 per cent off the original price.

Vagabond teases warmer weather with its pre-Spring 2023 collection

Photography courtesy of Vagabond

With Vagabond Shoemakers, it’s almost too easy to put your best foot forward. Just released is the European brand’s Spring 2023 pre-collection, a small but mighty lineup of footwear that can take you from day to night. Included in the mix is a chunky block-heeled loafer and ’90s-esque Mary Janes, both of which arrive are available in black and white leather.

The post Two Canadian Brands Drop New Collections + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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Fashion with Trend

’Tis the season of self-care. In other words: It’s time to watch the entire season 3 of Emily in Paris in one sitting.

That’s right, the newest instalment of Darren Star’s kooky dramedy is here, and once again, it welcomes us to follow marketing exec Emily Cooper (played by Lily Collins) as she traipses around Paris wearing ridiculous clothes and having zero inhibitions. As expected, it’s chock full of romantic chemistry, saccharine shenanigans and eye-assaulting outfits. And I’m finally ready to admit that to me, c’est incroyable.

Photography courtesy of Netflix

Season 3 follows our American ex-pat as she struggles to decide between staying at the marketing firm Savoir with her Chicago boss Madeline (Kate Walsh) or branching off with Sylvie (Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu) and the rest of her French co-workers. She’s still BFFs with her roommate Mindy (FASHION’s Winter 2023 cover star Ashley Park), she’s still frenemies with Camille (Camille Razat), and she still has a questionable amount of sexual tension with Gabriel (Lucas Bravo). Plus, she now has a hot new boyfriend, Alfie (Lucien Laviscount).

Naturally, the first episode sets the scene with an appropriately chaotic sequence: in a fit of existential panic provoked by a realistic nightmare, our main character chops her own bangs alone in her bathroom. A reckless beauty decision, just two minutes in?! Oh yeah, this season is going to be good.

Photography Courtesy of Netflix

The newest iteration of episodes has supplied perhaps the most absurdist looks yet, thanks to costume designer Marylin Fitoussi. We have feathers. We have frills. We have colour blocking, pattern clashing, and hazardously wide sculptural silhouettes. In Emily in Paris season 3, we have it all. That’s what I’ve come to appreciate about this series. As indicated through each wardrobe choice, it is unapologetically itself.

After premiering in 2020, Emily in Paris was rightfully criticized for lacking racial diversity, relying on reductive French stereotypes and championing an utterly out-of-touch protagonist. The reviews were in, and it seemed everybody agreed: this show is bad. From these accounts alone, I was a fervent naysayer of the franchise. With each new season announced, I was confused. With each Emmy nomination, I was shocked.

It would seem that despite the widespread criticism, the Netflix series is simply indestructible. So, in a recent flu-induced quest for escapism, I took a trip to Paris, Emily style. Perhaps it was each scene’s fever-dream quality — or maybe it was my literal fever — but that day, I realized that Emily in Paris has a candy-coated loveability that I had overlooked.

Photography Courtesy of Netflix

One of the best things about this show, pour moi, is that nothing makes sense. The timeline is absolutely not linear. Loyalties flip and flop like nobody’s business. Emily somehow dons a different designer outfit for each new occasion. But here’s the thing: I’m not watching Emily in Paris for the storyline. I’m not even watching for the characters. I’m watching for the vibes. And those, it never fails to provide. Case in point: the costumes.

This season, Emily has a particular penchant for metallics, wearing reflective jackets, knee-high boots and a sequin floor-trailing frock. Mindy’s ensembles may be the most eccentric, wearing face gems, bedazzled headpieces and a neon green cut-out-filled body suit that will forever remain cemented in my memory. Sylvie is still the chicest, sporting clean lines, impeccable tailoring and expert accessories. Madeline — the “Tacky American” — haphazardly throws together sequin mini-dresses, colourful blazers, and gaudy jewelry. My verdict: the outfits in Emily in Paris continue to deliver. Deliver what, exactly? I’m not sure, but I can confidently say that love it.

Photography courtesy of Netflix

By being simultaneously so good and so bad, Emily in Paris is an explosion of delicious nothingness; a viewing experience that massages your brain and tickles your senses. The show almost welcomes you to laugh at it, and for that, I have to respect it. In such a polarizing climate, this series has arguably united the world by giving us all something to bitterly binge. As one Twitter user so eloquently put it: “I’ve never hated a show so deeply yet felt so compelled to watch it.” Touché.

As Emily in Paris progresses, it’s clearly attempting to right its wrongs. In season 3, there are more fully fleshed-out characters of colour, Emily is trying harder to adopt French culture, and there’s even a queer storyline (win!). Don’t get me wrong: Emily continues to make mistakes. But it all feels a bit more meaningful as we watch her face the consequences of her selfish blunders. On the whole, though, Emily in Paris still lacks depth, complexity and thought-provoking commentary. But TBH, I like it that way!

At this point, there is nary a fashion crime Emily Cooper has not committed. There is no plotline that hasn’t felt wildly unrealistic. Any sign of common sense left the building ages ago. And yet, there is basically nothing this show can do to turn me away.

So grab a croissant, suspend your disbelief and lower your standards. Emily in Paris season 3 is yet another way-too-watchable treat. And I, for one, am happily along for the ride.

The post <Em>Emily in Paris</Em> Is Kinda Good, Actually appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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Fashion with Trend

A lot can change about a person in a year. And when you spend that year as a celebrity in the spotlight, major hair transformations or buzzy celebrity hairstyles 2022 never go unnoticed. With the instantaneous nature of social media, paparazzi sightings and photographer-packed red carpet events, how could it?

Based on the hair makeovers we spotted on celebrities in 2022, the general consensus is that bangs are back on trend, dramatic dye jobs have mega-shock value, and cropped haircuts are cool. But don’t just take our word for it — look to some of 2022’s buzziest babes, from Emily in Paris star Lily Collins and her Jane Birkin-fringe to newly blonde Bella Hadid, for the biggest celebrity hair transformations of the year.

Because we all need a little hair inspo for 2023 — new year, new you and all that, right?

Lily Collins made 2022 the year of Birkin bangs

 

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A post shared by Lily Collins (@lilyjcollins)

Though we first caught a glimpse of Lily Collins’ Birkin bangs last December just before the new year, she gave us a 12-month masterclass in how to consistently rework a fringe. The Emily in Paris leading lady spent 2022 with her hair in character as she flaunted her French-girl bangs ahead of the season 3 premiere — where the eclectic Emily Cooper *also* debuts bangs.

Kendall Jenner went ginger

 

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A post shared by Guido Palau (@guidopalau)

What began as a runway dye job for Kendall Jenner appearance in Prada’s fall/winter 2022 show became one of the biggest celebrity hair transformations of the year. As a model worth millions, Jenner knows that extreme beauty transformations are often part of the job — and she’s no stranger to bleached brows or platinum blonde hair in the name of fashion. But there was life beyond the runway for this redhead months after the Prada show, as she flaunting her new ginger status from the Vanity Fair Oscar party to social soirées with friends.

Billie Eilish went back to black

 

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A post shared by BILLIE EILISH (@billieeilish)

Back in February, Billie Eilish bid her blonde and brunette eras goodbye to dye her hair back to black. We’ve watched Eilish evolve since 2017, rocking everything from silver strands to bright blue locks, and who can forget her shocking neon green roots? This return to jet black — which was revealed by way of an Instagram post captioned only with a black square emoji — plays up the star’s Ocean Eyes and has lasted all year long. After partaking in the gothaissance at the Met Gala and releasing a dark new fragrance, this edgy raven hairdo feels more fitting than ever.

Doja Cat rocked a buzz cut

 

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A post shared by Doja Cat (@dojacat)

For Doja Cat, this summer was the season of the buzzcut. If we know anything about this pop star, it’s that she’s not one to shy away from making abeauty statement. We even witnessed her having a candid conversation with fans about her buzzing her hair to the scalp on an Instagram live in August. “I don’t like having hair. I never liked having hair. I cannot tell you one time since the beginning of my life that I’ve ever been like, ‘This is cool.’ I just do not like to have hair,” she shared live with viewers. With a newly buzzed canvas, we’ve watched the star deliver some of her most creative beauty looks yet ever since.

Aubrey Plaza went blonde

 

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Last month, Aubrey Plaza debuted a blonde bob fit for a Sicilian summer at The White Lotus. Sure, we’re used to seeing the actor take on red carpets and big screens as a classic brunette, but we’ve welcomed this recent “uptown blonde” look with open arms. Captioning a recent Instagram post, Plaza wrote, “Someday the blonde will all make sense…” followed by a winking emoji. Whatever the reason, we’re eternally grateful.

Sydney Sweeney went back to her roots

 

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A post shared by Sydney Sweeney (@sydney_sweeney)

In 2022, Sydney Sweeney came a long way from her Euphoria character Cassie Howard’s signature bottle blonde. Like Kendall Jenner, Sweeney rode the redhead wave for a stint earlier this year, but she’ll likely be closing 2022 out as a brunette. Everybody say thank you to Sweeney’s go-to hairstylist, Glenn Coco Oropeza, for this trip back to the star’s natural chestnut roots.

Jenna Ortega tried the “wolf cut”

 

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With a shaggy new cut by stylist David Stanwell, Jenna Ortega could take on a second role in season two of Wednesday as Nevermore’s newest werewolf pupil. Quite the departure from Wednesday Addams’ trademark ink-black braids, but fitting in the Tim Burton universe nonetheless. The “wolf cut” (which lies somewhere between a shag cut and a mullet) has been on trend since 2021, but if Ortega is any indication we expect to see more of this look in 2023. Fine by us!

Zendaya debuted a chic bob

 

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2022 was undoubtedly the year our favourite stars loved a bob, and Zendaya is the latest to test out the trend. Spoiler alert: she nails it. The Emmy Award-winning actor stunned on the red carpet of a Euphoria event this month as she introduced the paparazzi to her newly cropped auburn bob. When it comes to hair, there’s nothing Zendaya can’t do and there isn’t much she hasn’t done, but Z’s hairstylist Love Taije assures us that styling this bob is one of her more low-maintenance looks. “Just a simple blowout (round brushed),” she shared on Instagram.

Bella Hadid ended 2022 as a blonde

 

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Attention: Bella Hadid is a blondie! We typically know the Hadid sisters as Gigi the blonde and Bella the brunette — but this sibling duo looked more alike than ever since Bella went blonde earlier this month. It’s not her first rodeo as a blonde, but it has been a while and this time she’s sporting her own custom shade. The pro behind this colour job, blonde connoisseur Jenna Perry, told Vogue that the honey blonde hue has been titled “Baby Bella” and “Aspen Blonde” — take note of that for your 2023 appointments. Let’s see what 2023 brings the supermodel and whether or not blondes really do have more fun.

The post The Biggest Celebrity Hair Transformations of 2022 appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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