Wednesday 31 May 2023

Fashion with Trend

They say the only way forward is to never look back. But if fashion’s revolving door of widely hated trends is any indication, the true key to innovation is by pushing through what pains you. In other words: The future is here, and it’s full of chock full of capri pants.

RELATED: How to Style Low-Rise Jeans This Spring

You can thank/blame celebrities. Earlier in May, Jennifer Lawrence made headlines in New York City after wearing a baggy pinstripe button-down with equally XL capri pants from The Row and a pair of ballet flats. A few months earlier, Halsey attended the Givenchy Fall/Winter 2023 show in a lime green bra and a pair of low-slung cropped cargos, putting a dramatic take on the tiny-top big-bottom trend. We’d be remiss not to mention Bella Hadid, whose trend-transcending wardrobe has long included bottoms that are cropped just so. With each new street-style look, stars are spreading the redemption of capris like a virtual virus. And…we fear we’re ill.

In their truest form, capris hit a few inches below the knee. But the general concept of cropped slacks takes many shapes and sizes, from flowy culottes to Bermuda shorts. With each not-quite-a-pant design, a baseline level of contempt is baked into it. For one, capris are the prime vehicle for controversial skirt-over-pants styling. Not to mention, they have a history of coming exclusively in low-rise iterations — a scary flashback that most of us don’t want to relive. On top of it all, some people have come to see capris as inherently unflattering, awkward and just plain irredeemable.

Like other oft-vilified trends (tube tops; bloomers; cargo shorts) their mere presence elicits questions. The main one being, why? Why not commit to full-length trousers or a pair of decisive jorts? Why fall somewhere so ambiguously in the middle? In their defence, capris were in fact created for a functional purpose. (Can those Big Red Boots say the same?) Their first iteration dates back to the late 1940s, when designer Sonja de Lennart was walking on a beach in Capri, Italy, and cut off the bottom of her pants so as to not get them wet. This scientific alteration stood the test of time — (support women in STEM!) — with variations of cropped pants popularized by icons of the ’50s like Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly. In the ’90s, capris made a return in slim, fitted styles before getting bigger and baggier through the 2000s. To further reinforce their status as a controversial noughties design, they became a staple in Carrie Bradshaw’s wardrobe, before fading into the realm of outdated dressing.

Ashley Tisdale (Photography by Getty Images)

Today, perhaps the thought of capris jolts you back to sitting awkwardly in a middle school classroom, fresh off a department store shopping spree with your mom. Or maybe the capri return is a welcome go-ahead to dress like Ashley Tisdale and Beyoncé on the lawless red carpets of the early 2000s. However you choose to view it, though, capris are coming back in all iterations. Chanel has been championing cropped pants for a few seasons. Dua Lipa’s recent viral Versace collection was peppered with colourful just-below-the-knee pants. Capri enthusiasm is thriving on TikTok, too, where cropped trousers of all kinds are worn with gleeful abandon. Sheer lace pants with a disco ball belt. Calf-length slacks accentuated by a string. Faded jean gauchos that theatrically billow about. Turns out, 2023’s capris dial up the quirkiness of their predecessors.

@k__eelz

i am a capri pant stan 4 eva!!!! 🎀🎀🎀 #capris #capripants #pintereststyle #personalstyle

♬ original sound – Shop Rogue with Emma!

Wearing capris today is taken as a challenge to sartorial risk-takers. They’re sported by It girls like Devon Lee Carlson. They’re the in-the-know uniform for niche fashion fanatics at a Chloë Sevigny closet sale. They’re intentionally “controversial,” and that’s kinda what makes them cool. Above all, perhaps their return can be chalked up to much-needed practicality. At this point, we’ve withstood short shorts, micro minis and ditching pants altogether. It’s undeniably refreshing to have alternative warm-weather bottoms that feel like substantial clothing.

@luvjessicablair

capris are actually cute! there i said it #styling

♬ original sound – jess

Think about it: there are many reasons to wear capris. Actually, don’t think! Simply slip on your cropped pants and scamper out the door. Are you cosplaying Marilyn Monroe? Are you channelling Britney Spears on an MTV red carpet? Are you honouring your twelve-year-old self? That’s for you to know, and others to endlessly theorize about. Embrace the utter mystique of the three-quarter length slacks, and understand that you look cool doing it. In the needlessly cryptic words of TikTok, “I’m all for capris, if you know what I mean.

Not sure where to start with the 2023 trend? From Barbiecore to business casual, below are our top picks for easing back into capri pants.

 

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The post Can Capris Be Cute? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Tuesday 30 May 2023

Fashion with Trend

Warning: Spoilers for the Succession finale ahead.

Throughout the four turbulent seasons of Succession, viewers are trained not to think much of Tom Wambsgans. Played by Matthew Macfadyen, the weakling husband to Shiv Roy and puppet leader of ATN is a textbook hanger-on; always aligning with whoever is at the helm of Waystar Royco and seemingly void of any morals of his own. He’s not a force, he’s a follower. This is why, when he is named U.S. CEO of Waystar in the series finale, it comes as quite a shock. But this ending may have been under our noses all along. Look no further than his style.

RELATED: Succession Has Mastered the Art of Quiet Luxury

From the onset, one thing is clear about Tom: he likes nice things. And in a show that is intentionally lowkey about fashion, he talks about clothes a lot. As someone who wasn’t born into one-per-center wealth like the Roys, he broadcasts his expensive taste in an effort to assert his status. When he mocks the “ludicrously capacious” bag worn by cousin Greg’s date in episode 1 of season 4, he remarks on how it’s an indicator of not having money. (“What’s even in there? Flat shoes for the subway? Her lunch pail?”) Similarly, he’s always coming after Greg’s outfit choices for looking out of place. But in the same way that Greg is Tom’s personal punchline, Tom’s clothes have long been the butt of the joke to Shiv and the other Roy kids.

Photography courtesy of HBO

Tom’s style is built on posturing, costume designer Michelle Matland told The Ringer. And the Roys can tell. “No one else in the family will look at the price tag. They will buy something because they can afford it, and they love it, they like it, whatever,” she said. “Tom doesn’t know what quality is, it’s not part of his history. Money equals quality to him.” Along with shelling out as much cash as possible, he sweats the small details, wearing pocket squares, suspenders and impeccably polished shoes. This approval-seeking style is heightened by an over-enthusiastic assurance that he’s always “here to serve.” To the Roys, though, it’s a symbol of his ineptitude. In the early seasons, Roman criticizes his boxy suits and overly puffed vests for being giveaways of desperation. More recently, in season 4, Shiv ridicules his pristinely white sneakers, telling him they’re “why people don’t take you seriously.” But with this overly-agreeable persona, he’s able to effectively masks his ambitions.

The other Succession characters’ motives are easily gleaned through their clothes. Kendall is dressed to emulate, then defy, then usurp his dad. Shiv’s corporate wardrobe rehaul mirrors her intention to become CEO. Roman’s unchanging uniform shows how he doesn’t care to impress anyone, since he was born with all the status he’ll ever need. Conversely, in Tom’s painstaking precision, he has positioned himself as a faceless suit that can bend any which way the powers that be demand. He’s dressed to take orders, and this is no coincidence.

Photography courtesy of HBO

In season 1, Matland describes Tom as “a bit of a robot.” He’s loyal to the Roy family and their unethical antics — specifically when it comes to Shiv, who holds all the power in their relationship. But his efforts to be accepted through carefully coordinated co-ords — like pocket squares and ties — further establish his outsider status, which is reinforced by Shiv’s mistreatment of him. In season 3, after being repeatedly thrown under the bus by his wife, Tom betrays her by jumping ship to Logan’s camp despite the siblings working against their dad. His uniform when doing so? A relaxed cream Ralph Lauren linen suit, a crisp white button-up and a statement purple pocket square. He emits luxury, excess and distinct proximity to power. It’s in this unforeseen coup that he looks the most Tom he’s ever looked.

Tom Succession
Photography courtesy of HBO

In season 4, with Logan out of the picture, his marriage to Shiv in peril, and the siblings grasping for the top company spot, Tom’s appeasing strategy kicks into high gear. In the eighth episode, he washes his hands of ATN’s decision to unfairly announce fascist candidate Jeryd Mencken as president — despite being the “boss” of the network — because it’s what Kendall and Roman want. He looks particularly boisterous for an all-nighter at work, wearing a yellow tie against a striped shirt. His dress shoes are even remarked upon for being a little too fancy (and uncomfortable) for the gruelling occasion. But for Tom, this finery is armour.

Photography courtesy of HBO

Similarly, in the final episode, he listens attentively as Lukas Matsson divulges his attraction to (and possible intention to sleep with) Shiv, as if she’s not Tom’s wife. Matsson sits relaxed, his fuzzy multicoloured sweater providing ample coziness. Tom, by contrast, embodies an eager employee, leaning forward in a sterile suit and barely flinching at Matsson’s disrespect. In this scene, Matsson sees that Tom would never push back on him, making him the perfect CEO to control.

Photography courtesy of HBO

Time and time again, Tom’s perpetual “poser” identity has made him an easy-to-mock target. But because of it, he has stayed shrouded in mystery. Who is he? What does he want? Where does he come from? What is he capable of? We never really know, and in the end, that’s his biggest selling point.

Photography courtesy of HBO

After being appointed the new Waystar CEO, Tom looks more comfortable than ever in his corporate costume. Wearing a tailored suit and a tie so tight it could cut circulation, he’s the antithesis of the ever-eccentric Matsson in a burnt orange turtle neck. It’s clear what this relationship is: Matsson pulling the strings with Tom as the manicured frontman. Tom doesn’t have real power, he has the illusion of power. And he’s been dressing for that the whole time.

The post In <Em>Succession</Em>, Did Tom Have the Most Important Style All Along? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Fashion with Trend

Gregory Grist doesn’t need glasses. At least, not really. “My prescription is so negligible that they just prevent me from having headaches,” he laughs. So why does he currently have 200 pairs of eyewear in his Toronto apartment? It’s a long story.

RELATED: This Collector is Bringing Helmut Lang’s Sexy Back

Grist has always loved to play dress-up. “Growing up, there were a lot of costumes and giant foam heads in our house,” he shares. “We’ve always been a wacky family, and I think that really sparked my creativity.” After high school, the collector moved from his hometown in Nova Scotia to Southern Ontario to pursue a career in fashion design before pivoting to visual merchandising. But it wasn’t until 2011 and an impromptu job offer at Optical Outlook, an eyewear boutique in Yorkville, that his obsession truly took off, and he’s been there ever since.

At first glance, Grist’s collection looks chaotic: a mismatch of metals and plastic crammed into an antique armoire that looks about to burst. But upon closer inspection, you can see that there’s a method to the madness. Listing Princess Diana and Italian Vanity Fair editor-in-chief Simone Marchetti as his fashion inspirations, Grist describes his style as “floral, skeezy and precious” and admits to having a soft spot for aviators and Elton John-esque silhouettes from the late ’70s and early ’80s. As such, the sunnies that started his stockpile are by Betsey Johnson. “They’re white with Swarovski crystals all over — so very everyday,” Grist laughs.

 

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A post shared by Gregory Grist (@gregorygrist)

That’s not to say he doesn’t have a few classics. Grist has everything from cat-eyes to clubmasters from various designers like Chanel, Dior, Kenzo and Saint Laurent and cites Emmanuelle Khanh as his go-to brand. He just prefers to be more playful. “Now that I have all the standards, I can experiment,” he explains. Of course, Grist has some sunglasses on his wish list, like a pleated pair from Issey Miyake and mechanical-inspired spectacles from Jean Paul Gaultier. But most of his purchases are based on an emotional reaction. “I’m at that point where I’m no longer looking for something specific,” he says. “I’m looking for a feeling.” A feeling he can’t put into words: “I don’t know…. It just feels right.”

The same applies to getting dressed. Grist reveals that he thinks of eyewear as the “finishing touch” to an outfit and chooses his clothing first. In the case of indecision, he says, it’s not uncommon for him to carry multiple pairs of sunglasses in his bag at any given time. He’ll even go so far as to arrive at work wearing one style and leave wearing another after a spontaneous purchase. “Once I figured out that glasses add an extra dimension and elevate an outfit, I was like, ‘OK, I need 800 of them,’” he laughs.

Besides Grist being a self-proclaimed “glutton for options,” his lifelong love of playing dress-up keeps him coming back for more. “Each one is like a different character,” he explains. “I like to keep people guessing. I like it when people don’t recognize me. It’s almost like wearing a mask. I put a pair of sunglasses on and I’m like a celebrity — no pictures, please.” [Laughs]

Click through the gallery to see more of Gregory Grist’s eyewear collection.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Summer 2023 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

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Monday 29 May 2023

Fashion with Trend

This article was originally published on April 12, 2023 and has been updated. 

The ultimate billionaire perk? Dressing like you just don’t care. Call it recession core, call it the old money aesthetic, call it straight-up basic — lately, “quiet luxury” has been everywhere.

RELATED: The Beauty in Succession Is More Intentional Than You Think

Succession characters wear exclusively discreetly exorbitant clothes. Gwyneth Paltrow’s skiing accident courtroom fiasco doubled as a master class in stealth wealth. Recent runways have been leaning further into refined minimalism. Practical and sensible, yet painfully expensive, quiet luxury is bare-bones dressing void of labels and flashy embellishments. The antithesis of Barbiecore’s audacious oeuvre — it’s muted, toned-down, and always low-key. In this dimension, a $2,890 USD Burberry check carrier is profane. But a logo-less Celine leather tote? Pure class, baby!

Thing is, when you’re that well off, you don’t really want to draw attention to your wealth. At the core of quiet luxury is a sartorial language that only those in the know can speak; a way for the ultra-rich to separate themselves from the gaudy nouveau riche, and, of course, all us other plebeians. But why not beat the billionaires at their own game? Confuse them with a sea of minimalist ensembles and luxe anonymity! These days, emulating an Olsen twin is more in vogue than ever.

For those of us who don’t have north of $800 to spend on a baseball cap, performing stealth wealth is actually quite achievable. Embedded in this laid-back look is a “buy less, buy better” ethos, revolving around investing in capsule pieces that can be maintained sans constant closet overhauls. The viral quiet luxury style, as exclusive as it sounds, is actually about democratizing unattainable pillars of a wealthy lifestyle. Obviously, no one should feel like they have to pretend to be rich, but it’s admittedly fun to cosplay as a covert nepo baby. Not to mention, it’s pretty easy!

Rule number one: you must always look comfortable. Think matching knitted sets, cozy cardigans, and breezy slacks. Key to embodying this moneyed minimalism is opting for earth tones and basic silhouettes without statement details from quiet luxury brands. Luckily, plenty of affordable retailers specialize in just that. Why pay $1,240 for a short-sleeve button-down from The Row when you can get a near-identical piece from COS for a sliver of the price? Other widely available staples include a neutral trench, a crisp tee, tailored pants, and a versatile — read: muted — bag. Footwear should be equally unremarkable. No big Big Red Boots here! We’re talking flats, Mary Janes, Chelsea boots and kitten-heel slingbacks. Jewellery can be subtle studs, a sleek timepiece, or better yet, none at all.

Wealth and fashion have always been inherently intertwined. Above all, sporting the quiet luxury aesthetic implies being generally at peace with things. You’re not stressing about the humdrum of everyday life — like, say, what you’re going to wear. Instead, you emit an air of nonchalance, communicating that you are perpetually relaxed. This is a privilege that not everyone has. But we can certainly dress like we do.

Looking to build your own quiet luxury wardrobe on a budget? Read on for our top picks from quiet luxury brands that won’t break the bank.

 

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post How to Achieve the Quiet Luxury Look On a Budget appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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